topon

the malik ghat flower market in kolkata is a wonderful symbolic representation of the city's contradictiory 'nature.' this market seems to be one of the most significant spaces in the city. for me it was the overwhelming bright colors set alongside the filth that tickled my insides, but for the people of kolkata it is a place that is indispensable for their daily movements. these flowers will soon decorate images and structures of kali, shiva, and vishnu, which are found on the streets, in restaurants and shops, and in buses and cars; pretty much anywhere and everywhere. i was struck by the beauty of this place. and in between the beauty and the filth, where we stopped for a cup of chai, i came across topon: "there are no americans in kolkata, only american imperialism." for topon, americans=homogeneity via right- wing politics. as i began to share my political views with him, defending an american culture which i am familiar with (my friends are dope), he bobbed his head to the side. this is the most basic gesture in this culture, one which i have realized can mean anything. i like to think that i added complexity to his initial understanding, which has broadened. like many of the reactions i've gotten when i tell people that i'm cuban-american, when i mentioned this to topon, he lit up. "west bengal is a communist state." he was proud, and i think that he felt a connection with me. we exchanged a few more words and i walked away. but an interior dialogue continued. how can he be so proud of this 'communist state?' a state that is plagued with extreme poverty and, although no longer in the constitution, still a victim to the caste system. yes, a victim. "but the caste system only defines one's work," another man said to me after i criticized this ideological pride that he shared with topon. only? and most people seem to accept it all. it's karma. it's a part of this circular movement. but not for me. for me it's injustice...